Malta and Gozo

I met the chaps at a rather unreasonable time as we set off to Gatwick for an early flight to Malta. For some reason my BA silver status is still registering despite not making the grade this time around. It meant that Bully and I could each bring a guest in to the lounge. Jim was the only sensible one with a cup of tea.

When we landed I went through the EU line with my highly useful Irish passport and the chaps took part in the new regulations, however they still beat me to the finish line because I had a hold bag. Outside we were met by Joe in his large taxi who was taking us all the way to the villa in Gozo including the ferry ride. He took a slight detour as we approached the ferry terminal to show us the set that was built for the 1980 movie “Popeye” starring Robin Williams. They kept the set and have turned it into an attraction.

The ferry ride was only 20 minutes and we passed the relatively uninhabited island of Comino. Apparently two brothers live there. At the other end in Mgarr it was only fifteen minutes to the villa where we were met by the owner, Anthony. Great place and super pool.

The following morning we went for a brisk walk in beautiful sunshine. We strolled along quiet country roads and our first stop was a cemetery. Like many countries I’ve visited the plots contained whole families. I guess it saves space in a small island 9 miles by 4 miles with 40,000 people.

We were heading for Victoria which is the capital of Gozo and the largest town. It was also home to the Citadel which is probably the top landmark on the island. After Bully’s visit to a local barber, we headed inside the Citadel and trotted around for a while before increasing visitor numbers disturbed my sensibilities.

Next up in our triangular walking tour was the beach town of Marsalforn where we had a spot of lunch. After that the fun started. We chose the coastal route to another beach at Ramla Bay some 3 miles away. ChatGPT suggested it was more like a hike and tricky in places. No kidding! We could have died, but it was highly rewarding along a beautiful stretch of coastline. It took about an hour and the last climb was the most challenging. We ended up on all fours scrambling up a hill with loose gravel – a hiker’s nightmare both up and down.

We made it to Ramla Bay which features as one of the best beaches in the world. It wasn’t. The sand is the wrong colour for a start. It was Sunday so the locals were out and we didn’t tarry. It was a day of 26,000 steps with more tricky ones than usual.

On Monday we decided on a day trip to Valletta and boarded the fast ferry which took 45 minutes. Jim and Simon had never been to Malta and Valletta is the jewel in the crown. Purportedly the first “planned” European city in 1566 it’s located on a peninsula with a lovely harbour one side, and an even lovelier one the other side. Much of it is laid out in a grid and the natural undulations make it pleasing to the eye and a workout at the same time.

In the afternoon Jim had an appointment at the Hypogeum which is an underground prehistoric temple complex. We were less enthused by this and went to a bar.

Tuesday was a lazy day by the pool where Simon needed about 15 minutes to turn like a native. I’ve often wondered if he lived in a tropical climate whether he would turn African.

On Wednesday Simon, Jim and I went to the Ggantija Temples which were nearby. They are among the oldest free standing structures in the world, older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. Despite their UNESCO status, older didn’t mean anything special. Jim enjoyed them (of course). Me and Simon thought they were just a pile of rocks.

The three of us ventured out again on Thursday to see Mixta Cave overlooking Ramla Bay. The walk took us via Calypso’s Cave where Odysseus apparently stayed for seven years after Calypso offered him immortality. Eventually he’d had enough and returned to his wife Penelope in Ithaca. Penelope reportedly said, “Where the hell have you been”.

We pressed on and walked the red sand of Ramla Bay whilst wondering how on earth it made a “Best Beach” list. At the far end we faced another hike to Mixta Cave however it was less traumatising and only twenty minutes. At the top we were rewarded with some great views over the bay.

Friday was my birthday and the chaps did a little morning ceremony made even more special by Bully’s dancing. I got to choose what we did. Our first stop was the Church of St John the Baptist in the town of Xewkija. It was a fairly modern church finished in 1971 but it did have the third largest unsupported dome in the world.

From there we headed to the west coast of Gozo in search of Fungus Rock off the coast at Dwerja Bay. It was supposedly where a rare medicinal plant grew – the Maltese Fungus.

The surrounding area was suitably rocky and interesting so we spent about an hour rock hopping before heading back to the villa.

The town we stayed in was called Xaghra pronounced Shara and despite there being only around 5,000 people the church in the centre was amazing. The Maltese do like a nice church.

We left on Saturday morning after a sunny week of adventure, cards and the usual good banter. Friends since we were teenagers I feel utterly blessed having these guys in my life.

I was meant to be on a different ferry from the chaps – they were flying to the UK and I was staying in Valletta. Things didn’t work out with the fast ferry so I travelled with them to Cirkewwa (you couldn’t make these place names up…except someone did).

On the Malta side Mohammed from Kerala picked me up and drove me to Sliema, a suburb of Valletta, for my one night stay. It was way too early for my room to be ready so I headed out and took the small boat ferry thing across the bay to Valletta for three euros. Bargain. I shared with three youngsters. A girl from Prague and two Americans studying at UCL in London who happened to be Arsenal fans.

I then took to the coastal path around the city before heading inland and coming across St Catherine’s Monastery which was closed for 400 years. Anyway, it’s open now and a hidden gem among the back streets of Valletta. It was set up for orphaned girls back in the 1500’s. There are two nuns still living there and the youngest of them is 95.

Next up was the St John’s Co Cathedral. Not sure what the “Co” meant. WOW! It made St Edmund’s look like a garden shed. Stunning and one of the best I’ve seen. And two original Caravaggio’s to boot. “The Beheading of John the Baptist” which was Caravaggio’s largest painting and the only one he signed. Caravaggio arrived in Malta in 1607 and the painting has been situated in the cathedral for over 400 years.

I travelled by water taxi back to Sliema and walked around for a while. My hotel room was a box. If I’d had a cat, I wouldn’t have been able to swing it. There was some excitement in the evening. I was in the Di Bar watching football and writing the blog, minding my own business and three English guys walked in. They lived in Malta but a local Maltese guy, possibly nearer my age, took an instant dislike to them. They were hounded out of the bar just as I was leaving and he followed them out. There was nearly a punch up and I had a ringside seat. Highly exciting and some manhandling of plastic furniture occurred but in the end it was handbags.

The airport experience was pleasant. Fastracked through everything and then my first opportunity to test Priority Pass for lounge access. Very nice lounge with a balcony terrace area and very comfy sofas. The only criticisms I have are that they let a guy in wearing a football shirt, and no baked beans at the buffet.

I met a great couple from the US whilst charging devices. I shall add that to my list of places you can meet great people – David and Zoe who currently live in Italy. David works as an attorney for the US Army – JAG – Judge Advocates General’s Corps. Think “A Few Good Men”. He will soon be off to a posting in Washington state for three years. Zoe has a job working for a psychology practice back in the US. Good people. I hope they stay in touch.

It was when I left the lounge that the fun started. The airport is way too small for the volume of passengers and it felt like stepping into a refugee camp with people strewn everywhere. Thank the Lord for the lounge.

A few Maltese facts for your delight. Malta is around seven times bigger than Gozo, but still small. It’s 122 mi.² versus London which, counting all 32 boroughs, is 607 mi.² The total population of Malta is around half a million. They speak Maltese and use the “x” a lot but it’s pronounced “sh”. They have never won an Olympic medal. The most famous Malteser is arguably Edward De Bono however I found no statue of him anywhere.

An enjoyable time with my childhood friends with one observation. I’m not sure I saw Jim’s legs all week. Come to think of it, I’m not sure I’ve seen them since the 1980’s. Just saying.